A slow route linking Bergamo and Brescia. Every stage of this route has its own specific nature, art and food and wine features, meriting even just a weekend visit
Known for the industriousness of its people, a characteristic which has made its manufacturing sector famous too, Bergamo and Brescia boast provinces of still undiscovered beauty a world away from a collective imagination which has identified them with the working class and mass production. Key players in the pandemic emergency too, in 2023 the two towns decided to join forces, in a desire to move forward together, generating a single Italian Culture Capital. This was the inspiration for La Via delle Sorelle, a 130-km-long path linking the two towns which can be done in either direction and is mainly in the hills, passing through over thirty villages on as few asphalt roads as possible.
Designed to be done in six stages, the ideal is a week in the company of nature and culture, but you can also adapt it to the time you have available. Specifically stage two (starting from Brescia) crosses Franciacorta in two variants: a high route to the summit of Monte Cognolo with the route’s most spectacular views, or a low route which misses out this beautiful climb and is better suited to the less fit and bad weather days. Whichever you choose, there’ll be plenty of opportunities for a good glass of wine.
The walk begins in Gussago, and the first stage of food and wine interest is right here, Cooperativa Vitivinicola Cellatica Gussago, Franciacorta’s only wine cooperative to be formed exclusively of small landowners supported right through the production process, from the grape harvest to must working, bottling and distribution. After visiting this winemaking cooperative anyone wanting to get a feel for Brescia’s traditional great reds can taste a few wines from four of the area’s denominations: Ronchi di Brescia IGT, Cellatica Superiore DOC, Curtefranca DOC and Sebino IGT. Lovers of champagne-method wines, on the other hand, can try two single vintage wines: a Satèn Millesimato and a Pas Dosé Reserve.
After Gussago (Parco della Santissima is worth stopping off at), the route continues in the direction of Rodengo Saiano along the Gandovere stream and passing Abbazia Olivetana di San Nicola, an important monastic complex founded in around the 10th century. By now it’ll be time for lunch, unless you’re happy with a quick sandwich. If it’s a hot meal you’re looking for try some of the local products, both fish and meat, offered by Ristorante Gaudenzi. Around half an hour further along the stream, you get to Borgo del Maglio in Ome, a nucleus of agricultural buildings hosting Maglio Averoldi – which conserves some of the tools and creations of master forger Andrea Averoldi – and the Casa Museo Pietro Malossi museum.
Around half way along the route, Ome village is an ideal place to stay the night. Al Rocol was one of Franciacorta’s first farm holiday venues and also has winemaking buildings which offer various food and wine options from local product tastings to pre-dinner drinks and full meals. After a good meal and a regenerating sleep walkers set off once again for Monticelli Brusati. After the Castelveder belvedere, there are various route options: the lower route crosses Provezze before joining up with the main route again in front of Provaglio’s town hall whilst the high route climbs in the direction of Iseo to the peak of Monte Cognolo and then Corno del Creilì with views of the Lake, Montisola and the Torbiere del Sebino peat marshes. When you’ve got your fill of beauty you can set off on the descent which leads to Madonna del Corno di Provaglio d’Iseo and then to Provaglio town.
The second stage of Via delle Sorelle ends right here, but not before a last tasting at the Abrami Elisabetta wine estate whose founding dream is to make Pinot Nero the backbone of its Franciacortas, with Millesimato Extra-Brut Blanc de noir being the fullest expression of this. A last tipple before returning home is to be had at the station, as Il Viandante Franciacorta is based right here. It is an eco-sustainable and plastic-free café and also an association which undertakes to organise temporary exhibitions, conferences and music and theatre events designed to raise local people’s cultural awareness and that of all the tourists who venture into theses two culture capital towns.
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